lemiIt’s all in the details in Italy—from fine art to fine dining, not a thing is left unembellished
Crossing Food Bridges
Venice
Behind the tourist traps of Venice lie hidden gems that serve authentic local cuisine. Through canals, over bridges, and between alleys, we’ve discovered the best Venetian food and where to find them. Indulge in delicious Italian fare, from heavenly pasta in humble trattorias (restaurants) to seasonal pastries from bakeries. You’ll realize that La Serenissima is a haven for good food if you know where to look!
The residents of Venice primarily come to Osteria al Portego for ombra (wine), a traditional Venetian aperitif, and cicchetti (Venetian tapas). Savor their assortment of bite-sized treats—particularly the Sarde in Saor (sweet and sour sardines)—but save some room for a classic osteria (Italian for “tavern”) meal. There are only eight tables in the formal dining area, so call ahead to enjoy their delectable Seppie in Nero con Polenta (squid ink spaghetti) without the wait!
- +39415229038
Calle De La Malvasia 6014, Venice, Italy
- https://www.osteriaalportego.org/
Another bacaro (wine bar) that deserves your attention is El Sbarlefo. The place consistently draws a crowd of hungry diners craving for their famous Baccalà Mantecato (creamed cod), spread on a crostini (toasted bread)! Pair your cicchetti with a glass of wine from their comprehensive selection, and join the crowd on the streets bobbing their heads and tapping their feet to easy tunes.
- +39415246650
Cannaregio 4556/C, Venice, Italy
- http://www.elsbarlefo.it
Venice does fantastic risottos, and you’ll find the best version of it at Trattoria al Gatto Nero on the island of Burano. It’s so good that renowned chef and restaurateur Jamie Oliver visited the restaurant to learn how to make the dish! Delight in a plate of Risotto di Gò (Risotto Burano Style), a rice dish that consists of ghiozzi fish from the lagoon. Al Gatto Nero is also one of the few restaurants in Venice that serve moeche (fried soft-shell crabs) when they’re in season.
- +3941730120
Via Giudecca 88, Burano, Venice, Italy
- http://www.gattonero.com/en/index.html
Follow the local workmen to Trattoria alla Rampa for a hearty lunch. The eatery serves their reasonably priced Menu Operai (Workers’ Menu) from 12:00PM to 12:45PM. For around EUR13 (USD15.05) to EUR15 (USD17.36), you’ll get a set meal that includes pasta, a main dish, wine, and coffee. Guests who come in past 1:00PM are allowed to order from the a la carte menu, which includes a superb Risi e Bisi (Italian rice and peas).
- +39415285365
Fondamenta Sant'Anna 1135, Venice, Italy
Situated in the center of Venice, Cantina Do Spade is the ideal stopover for a Spritz (wine-based cocktail) and cicchetti after an eventful day in the city. For something more filling, try the Bigoli in Salsa (whole wheat pasta with salt-cured fish) and Venetian Style Liver (calf’s liver sauteed in olive oil and butter)—both classic Venetian dishes. The small space easily gets packed, so prepare for a bit of a wait!
- +39415210583
Calle Do Spade, San Polo 859, Venice, Italy
- https://cantinadospade.com/en
Snag a chair at CoVino, a restaurant that features a Slow Food Foundation (a movement advocating food biodiversity)-approved menu. Choose your antipasti, secondi, and dessert, and pair them with one of CoVino’s curated wines. The space is tiny, with just a handful of tables and an open kitchen filling up the room. Seats are limited, so make a reservation or get ready to get a little intimate with your seatmates!
- +39412412705
Calle del Pestrin Castle 3829A/3829, Venice, Italy
- https://www.covinovenezia.com/
Home-style food takes the spotlight at Antiche Carampane. The centuries-old trattoria’s laid-back vibe reflects the serene Venetian atmosphere, thanks to its congenial staff and classy interiors. Taste the glory of the Queen of the Adriatic as you dig into their seafood specialties, like their signature Bigoli in Cassopipa (whole wheat pasta in spicy seafood sauce)!
- +39415240165
San Polo 1911, Venice, Italy
Since the 1930s, Rosticceria Gislon has been dishing out quick, yummy bites to San Marco workers. Sidle up to the glass counters to get your hands on Mozzarella in Carrozza (fried cheese sandwiches), Arancini (rice balls), and other finger foods at bang-for-your-buck prices! Lunch break and late afternoons draw a mob of regulars, so steer clear when you’re in a hurry.
- +39415223569
Calle de la Bissa 5424, Venice, Italy
Find sandwich heaven in Bar Rialto da Lollo! Pick from a variety of inventive tramezzini (crustless triangle sandwiches) or get a custom-made panini (grilled sandwiches). Choose from an extensive selection of fresh ingredients to go in your order, like seasonal vegetables to Italian hams. It’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the options, so ask the staff for filling suggestions—they’ll happily help you concoct the perfect snack!
- +39412413825
Ruga dei Spezieri 234, Venice, Italy
- https://www.facebook.com/barrialtosnc
During Venice’s carnival season, bakeries start serving a fried donut delicacy called frittelle. Tucked in the heart of Dorsoduro, Pasticceria Tonolo makes what many Venetians consider the best Frittelle—light, soft, and scrumptious. Their Frittelle alla Crema (with cream) is so flavorful that you’ll have a hard time stopping yourself from eating more! Tonolo also offers other baked goods on their regular menu, such as Apfelstrudel (apple pastry) and Bignè al Zabaione (marsala cream pastry).
- +39415237209
Dorsoduro 3764, Venice, Italy
- https://www.facebook.com/PasticceriaTonolo
After gorging on Venice’s finest fare, end on a high note with the locals’ favorite sweet course: tiramisu (Italian coffee-flavored dessert)! I Tre Mercanti lets you select from several different flavors of tiramisu, from classic coffee to matcha green tea. It may look different from the usual presentation, but you’ll overlook that as soon as you take a bite. Remember to take one or two more servings for the road—you’ll be craving for it!
- +39415222901
Castello 5364, Venice, Italy
- https://www.itremercanti.it/
Dessert doesn’t always have to be sinful, as demonstrated by Gelateria il Doge’s range of gluten- and fat-free gelato. They still have other luscious offerings, such as the extra rich Strabon (made of cocoa, espresso, and chocolate-covered almonds). The 23 varieties may be intimidating, so we suggest you start with their signature Crema di Doge (candied orange and chocolate)!
- +3891288965
Dorsoduro 3058/A, Campo S. Margherita, Venice, Italy
- http://gelateriaildoge.com
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